Sunday July 16, Saint Loup-sur-Thoet

An old Chateau in Saint Loup-sur-Thoet

It was time to move on today and head to the Isle d’Oleron, had heard it was really nice. Had a great drive north along the coast after leaving Mortagne, the sun was shining and there were great views out over the mouth of the estuary.

Fabulous views this morning as we left.

Driving into Royan we noticed the large number of “proper” camping grounds near the sea and people and cars were everywhere. Needed to refuel and had to battle the queues, before continuing on towards the bridge over to the island. We were in bumper to bumper traffic, and it was the same both ways, cars loaded with bikes, trailers, caravans and campervans. It was slow. Someone had once said to us, stay away from the beaches in the south during the holiday season from mid-July and through August – and we realised why.

It was a great view as we crossed the bridge but realised that it was going to be all too busy for us, let alone trying to find someone to camp. At the next round-a-about we went right round and headed back the way we came.

Views from the bridge to Isle d'Oleron

Rural countryside

This was time to head inland and north to the Loire, where we are keen to do some cycling. Pulled over, checked the map, reset Jilly and we were on our way again – to a new destination. Before long we had left the queues of holiday makers behind and were back into some more “sensible” driving!!!

We were back into rural France, no grapes but large areas of cropping including acres upon acres of sunflower seeds. It was a really pleasant drive that took us around Saintes, Niort and Parthenay before finally arriving at an Aire in this village about 4pm. Had been doing some research while we were driving and this one with its grassy parking area, and handy to the very old village and chateau, ticked the boxes..and it is free!

After almost two weeks of pleasantly cooler temperatures, the weather warmed up today and it was close to 30 when we arrived. Too hot to go exploring so put out the awning and relaxed in the shade.

Tonight, about 9pm when the sun was getting low I took my camera and went for a wander into the village. Had a glimpse of it as we drove in but really didn’t realise what an old village it was. As I wandered through the narrow streets in the balmy evening air, watching groups of people sitting out in the old streets, flowers tumbling out of window boxes and the odd car driving through, I had a smile on my face, feeling the atmosphere of real heartland France. These are the villages that the tourists don’t get to see, that aren’t spoilt with lots of tacky souvenirs to sell. This is the France that I love.

The really wonderful village of Saint Loup-sur-Thoet

A street party was happening!