Wednesday August 25, Beaumont Provincial Park, Fraser Lake, BC

220 Miles

Today we found civilization again when we left the Cassiar Highway and joined what is called the Yellowhead Highway. Towns, shops, and traffic.  It somehow felt sort of sad, as the wilderness that we have been soaking up for so long seems to be behind us now. The roads less traveled and the little communities with very few amenities and supplies held a real charm. We often wondered how these people survived, so far from anywhere and with no signs of a source of income, apart from the travelers on the road. Guess it is time to move on.

Mind you the day started out with a group of real characters. The generator had just started making a dreadful noise, so we drove into the only business still operating in Kitiwanga, the local garage, a one man operation. It was about 9am and as we drove in four pairs of eyes watched us, the locals were sitting outside with their morning coffee, a ritual that apparently happens every day.

Eric was great, and he discovered that a part on the generator exhaust had worn through, but was able to find some parts to fix it up. It never ceases to amaze us the service that you get in these small places.

While Ian and Eric were dealing with it, I had a long conversation with Henry, a delightful guy, who told me all about his life. He had been adopted by a magistrate and was educated at a private school in Vancouver, his father wanting him to go to college to train as a lawyer. But Henry wanted none of that and went bush, and that has been what he has done for much of his life. His wife and baby daughter died during childbirth and he took to the bottle, but 15 years ago gave up drinking. He has recently shifted into town, one of the reasons being that the wolves were starting to eye him up as he got older and weaker. He said they figured his time was nearly up! He had some great stories to tell about living under canvas in the wilderness.

Our first stop was at the small town of Hazleton where we saw the Skeena Bakery. Felt like a coffee and a wee treat! What amazing food, turns out that it is a “Not for Profit Group” providing employment and training for people with disablitilies. The bread is organic and made by hand. We bought some whole grain bread and made sandwiches at lunchtime….WOW, sooo good.

Arrived at Smithers, and amazed, the first town for ages that looked really affluent, enjoyed walking around and checking out the shops. Evidently there is good skiing in the area during the winter and the town has taken on the swiss look, with many of the stores modeled along those lines.

The biggest surprise today has to see livestock and farming, if not on a minor scale. This probably is the first we have seen since leaving Calgary some 2 ½ months ago…Ian is impressed!

The rain has been with us off and on all day, and hear that the fire ban has already been lifted!