Thursday September 13, Ribadavia (after day in Santiago)

The Cathedral, amazing but the queue's were too long to get in.

Our overnight stop was great, absolutely quiet and we were home alone! The thirty-minute drive into Santiago was a breeze, once again the lack of traffic and the size of the roads just doesn’t cease amazing us. Not once have we discovered grid lock peak traffic.

Apart from the navigator missing a road, necessitating a bit a bit more driving and two roundabouts we found the huge asphalted area for bus and camper parking where for €3 we could park until 8pm. From what I can gather the big tour buses drop their tourists off in the city and then park up here until it is time to pick them up. There were quite a line up of them.

Before long we were just outside the carpark catching our bus into the old centre of town. There was a huge permanent indoor market bustling with people on the outskirts of town. It was mainly meat, fish and vegetables, and there were just so many stalls. Each vendor had quite a small area but it was set up with chillers and the butchers were cutting up meat for their customers. A fascinating place.

Then it was off through the narrow twisting cobbled roads of this very old medieval town. The granite buildings merge together with the beautiful monasteries and convents. Vegetation seems to sprout from lichen covered crevices. And everywhere is a sense of peace that I was very aware of as people slowly walked towards the square and the cathedral. Two girls were busking, playing haunting music on their violins and further on there was a lone bagpiper. And everywhere were the pilgrims, packs on their backs and dusty hiking boots, and the scallop shell. They were heading to their goal.

The narrow streets opened out onto the plaza and our first look at the magnificent Cathedral. What a sight. We spent a long time sitting on the edges of the plaza watching the groups of pilgrims, the emotion on their faces of having finally arrived. In the distance were large groups of tourists being herded around, and the queue to get inside the cathedral was extremely long. We just enjoyed being part of the crowd and watching.

Dragged ourselves away and continued exploring the nearby streets, cafes everywhere and very good quality stores selling clothing, jewellery and shoes. Found a nice little café with umbrellas and had a welcome sit with a cold beer and tapas…and watched the people.

It was mid afternoon before we were back on the road looking for the bus to take us back….and that took awhile (!) but finally made it. Found the excellent self-service laundry close to our parking area that I had read about online. Decided to make the most of it and do a big wash of sheets, towels and clothes before we left town. In just over an hour had it all done and the bed remade and we were on our way. Found this town about 1 ½ hours drive south that had a well-reviewed camp area right near town and under shady trees. And evidently is a wine growing area too!! Perfect especially as the temperatures are rising a bit, noticing it after leaving the north coast. It was over 30 this evening as we drove along the once again almost deserted roads.

We met up with Anne and Bill an English couple who we chatted to in Santiago, they had decided to come here too so spent and enjoyable time sitting outside chatting in the balmy evening air.

Beautiful old buildings everywhere.

Buskers adding to the atmosphere

And the pilgrims.

The delight in making it

Back out into the country climbing to 800 metres before
dropping down to Ribadavia