Wednesday August 11, Chilcoot Lake, Haines, AK
220 Miles
Today has got to be up there as one of the best on the trip, from the most stunning scenery to bear encounters! What more could you want in this part of the world.
This morning was so clear and fine, it felt a bit like very early autumn, and driving around Kluane Lake was just breathtaking. The lake was turquoise and the mountains looked so close. There is something about the Yukon that we really love, maybe it has something to do with the remoteness and peace of the place.
The road into Haines Junction on the Alcan was great, no frost heaves or pot holes, and the scenery just went on and on.
We stopped in Haines Junction, a small town on the intersection of the Alcan and the Haines highways, really just a service town. But it had a great bakery that we had heard about, so stopped there for a coffee, some buns and wifi…the most essential part!
Then we it was south to Haines, a trip of about 180 miles that took us from the Yukon into British Colombia then back through border control and into Alaska…and another time change, and time to get the American dollars out again! We have another hour today.
The road climbed up through the treeline and into the Chilcott Pass. Mountain ranges were on both sides of the highway, and descending into Haines it became even more mountainous, with snow capped peaks and numerous glaciers. The sun was shining, I have never seen anything like it, and realised that I was so mesmorized by it all that I didn’t take any photos through that area, but just soaked it up.
Had a quick look at Haines as we drove through but it was getting late and Keith and Holly had recommended the state camp here, about 9 miles from town, so headed straight out. We saw a number of fishermen on the river and then noticed a large number of vehicles stopped on the road. Sure enough there was a grizzly walking down the side of the river with her 2 cubs. But there was also a state trooper and a Park ranger there supervising the people and keeping everyone safe. This evidently is a regular occurrence at this time of the year, as there is a fish weir and the bears find it a great spot to get a feed. What a sight to
see the bear wandering down the riverside and the 2 cubs romping along and playfighting with each other. And yes Aidan, I managed to get some good photos without “Bear Butts”! She was wearing a tracking collar.
When we got to the weir there was another grizzly and we watched as she walked out and caught a salmon which she then took back to shore. Evidently she has triplets and the fish was to feed them, they were hiding in the trees.
We were fortunate to get a great spot right by the lake, thanks to a couple whom we had met on the road when we stopped to help them with a puncture. They spotted us and offered their site, they were just heading off to take the ferry, luckily as the camp was full.
After dinner we walked down to the lake and were talking with some fishermen….then we spotted another grizzly walking down the far side of the river. Just amazing to think that we have been looking for them for ages and then tonight we spotted 3 different bears.
Today has got to be up there as one of the best on the trip, from the most stunning scenery to bear encounters! What more could you want in this part of the world.
This morning was so clear and fine, it felt a bit like very early autumn, and driving around Kluane Lake was just breathtaking. The lake was turquoise and the mountains looked so close. There is something about the Yukon that we really love, maybe it has something to do with the remoteness and peace of the place.
The road into Haines Junction on the Alcan was great, no frost heaves or pot holes, and the scenery just went on and on.
We stopped in Haines Junction, a small town on the intersection of the Alcan and the Haines highways, really just a service town. But it had a great bakery that we had heard about, so stopped there for a coffee, some buns and wifi…the most essential part!
Then we it was south to Haines, a trip of about 180 miles that took us from the Yukon into British Colombia then back through border control and into Alaska…and another time change, and time to get the American dollars out again! We have another hour today.
We made lots of stops along the road, at glorious lakes and rivers and streams but the scenery on this road would be the best we have been over. Big signs everywhere about being bear aware at this time of the year especially as the berries are ripe and the salmon are spawning, so carried the bear spray with us whenever we left the van.
We pulled off the highway into a small Indian summer fishing village on the river and had a long chat with “Gord” who had spent all his summers here as a child. They have the traditional food cache and fish drying rooms to keep the bears away. Gord always has hia dog with him for safety, he is a good “bear” guard dog.
The road climbed up through the treeline and into the Chilcott Pass. Mountain ranges were on both sides of the highway, and descending into Haines it became even more mountainous, with snow capped peaks and numerous glaciers. The sun was shining, I have never seen anything like it, and realised that I was so mesmorized by it all that I didn’t take any photos through that area, but just soaked it up.
Had a quick look at Haines as we drove through but it was getting late and Keith and Holly had recommended the state camp here, about 9 miles from town, so headed straight out. We saw a number of fishermen on the river and then noticed a large number of vehicles stopped on the road. Sure enough there was a grizzly walking down the side of the river with her 2 cubs. But there was also a state trooper and a Park ranger there supervising the people and keeping everyone safe. This evidently is a regular occurrence at this time of the year, as there is a fish weir and the bears find it a great spot to get a feed. What a sight to
When we got to the weir there was another grizzly and we watched as she walked out and caught a salmon which she then took back to shore. Evidently she has triplets and the fish was to feed them, they were hiding in the trees.
We were fortunate to get a great spot right by the lake, thanks to a couple whom we had met on the road when we stopped to help them with a puncture. They spotted us and offered their site, they were just heading off to take the ferry, luckily as the camp was full.
After dinner we walked down to the lake and were talking with some fishermen….then we spotted another grizzly walking down the far side of the river. Just amazing to think that we have been looking for them for ages and then tonight we spotted 3 different bears.
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